Modern history

                  

The history of clothing in India dates back to ancient times, yet fashion is a new industry, as it was the traditional Indian clothing with regional variations, be it the sari, ghagra choli or dhoti, that remained popular until the early decades of post-independence India. A common form of Indian fashion originates from Western culture. Fashion includes a series of sequins and gold thread to attract customers and apply a statement to the Indian fashion community. A famous Indian fashion trademark is embroidery, an art of sewing distinct thread patterns. A way to include the traditional look and create a new fashion statement includes embroidery applied to different dresses, skirts, shirts, and pants to reflect the western culture influence as well as include the Indian tradition.

As part of larger revival movement in the Indian textile industry, Ritu Kumar, a Kolkata-based designer and textile print-expert started working on reviving the traditional hand block printing techniques of Bengal, and making it a part of the fashion industry, established "ethnic chic". She opened her first boutique in Delhi in 1966. In 1973, she first showcased the Zardozi embroidery in her garments, which had its origins in the royal costumes dating back to the Mughal era. This led to the revival of this lost art. In time embroidery became a prominent feature of Indian wedding attire, and also one of the country's biggest fashion exports. This was a period of revival, where various organisations, NGOs and individuals were involved in reviving traditional Indian techniques, in weaving, printing, dyeing or embroidery, including ikat, patola (double-ikat), bandhani (tie-dye) and shisha (mirror embroidery).

An early trendsetter in fashion was Bollywood (Hindi cinema), where costume designers like Bhanu Athaiya started experimenting with film fashion in the 1960s. Athaiya started working on period costumes in Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962) and Amrapali (1966), though she went on to introduce varied trends through Teesri Manzil (1966), Chalte Chalte (1976), Karz (1980) and Chandni (1989). These were soon followed by the mass market. Also situations and themes in Indian cinema became westernised, making way for the display of diverse fashion. Over the years, popular Bollywood trends have been the Madhubala's Anarkali-look with kurtas and churidars in Mughal-e-Azam (1960), purple embroidered sari worn by Madhuri Dixit in Hum Aapke Hain Koun...! (1994), to Rani Mukherji's short kurti-suits in Bunty Aur Babli (2005), and chiffon sarees and trench coats in Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna (2006), Veer Zaara suits and blouses from Parineeta. This comes besides various fashion interpretations of the sari in films like Chandni (1989) with Sridevi, Main Hoon Na (2004) with Sushmita Sen and Dostana (2008) with Priyanka Chopra, which became fashion trends.

However, in recent decades, with increasing exposure to the West, its influence is no longer as strong as in previous decades. By the 2000s, with rise in the Indian diaspora around the world and the non-resident Indians, Bollywood continues to exert far greater influence on the fashion sensibilities amongst Indians around the world.

1980s revival

                   
 

Due to the continued influence of vintage fashion and retro-inspired pop culture, 1970s and 1980s styles have maintained a steady presence in the fashion industry throughout the 2020s. clothing such as pinstripes, textured knits with vertical stripes, leather waistcoats, corduroy clothing, 5 inch inseam shorts, navy blue and emerald green power suits with shoulder pads, pleated trousers, and Chelsea boots regained popularity. Shirts with large and pointed collars became trendy again. The increased formality for men returning to the office was, in part, a reaction to the ubiquitous casual wear associated with working from home during the coronavirus lockdowns of 2020–21.

In Britain and the US, clothing that regained mainstream popularity from 2020 to 2024 included clothes with sports logos and color blocks, Harrington jackets, brothel creepers, Miami Vice inspired suits in candyfloss pink, ice blue, buttercup yellow or mint green, baseball jackets, stonewashed denim jackets, and red or green plaid trucker-style jackets with sheepskin lining, aviator sunglasses, brown shearling flight jackets, plaid suits, striped full-button cardigan sweaters with polo shirt collars, white Converse All-Star or throwback Adidas sneakers, tan gabardine trenchcoats reminiscent of those worn by 80s TV detective Columbo, preppy style aran sweaters and fairisle cardigan sweaters with shawl collars, safari suits intended for the modern business casual workplace, double-breasted 1940s-style blazers originally revived in the 1980s as the power suit, camp collar shirts with bold prints or stripes, corduroy sports coats, Ivy League college-style cardigans with trim, jacquard, dog's tooth, and cashmere check wool scarves, tricolour socks, Vans, monotone Plimsoll shoes, towelling polo shirts, turtlenecks, and t-shirts featuring vintage-inspired graphics such as muscle cars, comic book characters, and brands such as Coca-Cola.

Colors such as green, grey, navy blue, red, black, white, forest green, and orange became popular in 2021. Other desired articles of clothing included stylized pale blue and magenta representations of palm trees or cassette players, and 1980s movie posters such as Star Wars or the Ghostbusters logo due to the unexpected popularity of the 2021 film.

Balletcore fashion

        

 Ballerina-inspired fashion in the mid-2020s had a significant impact on the fashion industry, influencing both high fashion runways and mainstream street fashion.This trend drew inspiration from the graceful and elegant aesthetic of ballet dancers, incorporating elements such as soft tulle fabrics, delicate lace, wraparound silhouettes, ballerina skirts, and ballet flats into clothing designs. The trend also emphasized a more feminine and romantic style, with pastel colors, flowy skirts, and off-the-shoulder tops becoming popular choices for fashion enthusiasts in Singapore, the UK and America. The influence of ballerina fashion extended beyond clothing, inspiring hairstyles such as soft buns and loose waves, as well as delicate accessories like ribbon chokers and ballet slipper-inspired shoes. Ballerina-inspired fashion brought a sense of whimsy and ethereal beauty to the fashion world during this period and also increased the popularity of ballet-inspired workout wear, with brands creating collections that combined functionality with a balletic aesthetic.

Glamour wear

 In Britain and America, luxury fashions often with shiny or metallic detailing became popular evening wear and clubwear from the winter of 2023 until the spring of 2025.Desirable items included brown minidresses sometimes featuring bronze sequins, metallic or sequined tuxedo jackets, bark colored silk midi dresses,small leather handbags, 1990s fashion inspired Mary Janes, pantywaist tops, goth fashion inspired black midi dresses,  inspired pointy court shoes, sheer belted mini dresses with green sequins, sheer dresses with decorative ribbon bows, metallic silver pants, knitted dresses in grey, navy blue, cream or black sometimes featuring intricate Nordic inspired patterns,rhinestone cowboy boots, white shawl lapel sportcoats, black or white embroidered western shirts or fringe jackets, lots of silver jewelry, silver brocade slip dresses, dresses decorated with feathers,flared trousers white dresses, Scandinavian inspired enamel jewelry, timeless "quiet luxury" inspired mock turtleneck sweaters, asymmetric dresses black leather block heel knee high boots, baguette bags in metallic black, silver, green, red, or brown, satin blouses, black tuxedo style trouser suits,black polka dot dresses and satin half-slip skirts worn as outerwear, and grey old money inspired Crombie style overcoats.Desirable colors included silver, black, white, navy blue, dark green, sky blue, and bronze. Many younger women hired going-out outfits from websites like Net A Porter rather than buying fast fashion dresses and only wearing them once on a night out.

                

1990s in fashion

                                                  

 Fashion in the 1990s was defined by a return to minimalist fashion,in contrast to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s. One notable shift was the mainstream adoption of tattoos, body piercings aside from ear piercing and, to a much lesser extent, other forms of body modification such as branding.

In the early 1990s, several late 1980s fashions remained very stylish among men and women. However, the popularity of grunge and alternative rock music helped bring the simple, unkempt grunge look to the mainstream by that period. This approach to fashion led to the popularization of the casual chic look, which included T-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and sneakers, a trend which would continue into the 2000s. Additionally, fashion trends throughout the decade recycled styles from previous decades,most notably the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.

Unlike the 1980s, when fashion with volume was commonplace, the 1990s was more characterized as time when fashion was decidedly low maintenance. The 1990s was also time when more people began to value fashion as an intellectual form. During this period, alternative fashion strategies become part of the commercial format. Resistance to generally accepted fashion trends became one of the basic principles of fashion in the 1990s. Elements of deconstruction in costume became an important element of commercial fashion.

Due to increased availability of the Internet and satellite television outside the United States, plus the reduction of import tariffs under NAFTA, fashion became more globalized and homogeneous in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

COVID-19 pandemic

                 

 During the COVID-19 pandemic, wearing a face mask became a common and often mandatory practice. The mask shortage, the desire for self-expression, and the ability to quickly make masks without specialized technology soon led to a multitude of mask designs. People quickly started matching their masks to their clothing, selecting masks in different fabrics, colors, and patterns. This change made masks a fashion statement so people could follow health recommendations while yet expressing their own style.

During the pandemic, fashion trends evolved significantly, with a notable shift towards comfort. This change was particularly evident in American public schools and universities, where students embraced more relaxed and casual clothing options. As remote learning became normalized, students in both K-12 schools and higher education increasingly favored comfortable clothing like pajamas, sweatpants, and athleisure wear. The shift toward casual dress codes allowed students to prioritize comfort over formality, even in academic settings. Pajama pants and loungewear became common choices for students attending classes virtually, reflecting a broader cultural shift toward prioritizing comfort, functionality, and ease. In many cases, the rise of remote learning and video conferences further encouraged this trend, leading students to opt for attire that was easy to wear and allowed them to feel at ease while still participating in their academic work. This trend persisted after quarantine, as many students continued to embrace comfortable clothing in American public schools and university settings. In America, it became common for students in public schools and universities to wear pajama-style pants and loungewear, even for in-person classes. Many students, especially in higher education, opted for outfits that combined comfort and practicality, maintaining a casual approach to school fashion even after returning to physical classrooms.